The Wine Advocate - 97 points

"Produced from 100% high wire Wente Clone, 1977 plantings, the 2014 Chardonnay The High Wire has pronounced honeyed peach, lemon drop, pineapple and passion fruit notes with touches of crushed stones, flint and praline. Medium-bodied, rich, refreshing and absolutely packed with the most incredible flavor layers imaginable from this grape, this wine ticks all the Chardonnay boxes and then some. 100 cases were made."

About

Standing conspicuously tall above the surrounding stubby little French-style vines in the domaine of the Currents, the High Wire Chardonnay is a magnificent anachronism.  Planted in 1977 to the pre-Prohibition "Wente Clone," on a 1970's trellis (the California Sprawl), the High Wire was long disparaged as the ugly duckling of the vineyard.  It stubbornly resisted all attempts to graft it over or re-train it into submission, and the ugly duckling ultimately grew into the regal long-necked swan that it was meant to be.